September 20th 2005

The train ride on the other hand, was quite an experience. I still think back on it as if it were a dream because it lasted from 9pm to 9am and I was half asleep most of the time anyway.
Six out of the seven of us were in one compartment that meant that we each had a bench on either the bottom, middle or top (my area) in a room the size of a closet. And although the filth was concerning, the fact that we got to lay down was amazing and make me like the train much more than the plane.

Just a blur of people

Most of the crew: Chris, Elise, Mallory, Me and Jen

September 20th 2005
Varanasi


Varanasi blows. It’s 87 degrees at night (as in right now). The power goes out for hours on end all the time (as in RIGHT NOW) and they have really loud generators that don’t generate any electricity (also going on right now). I am SO NOT HAPPY RIGHT NOW.

September 21st 2005
6:45am- All of my toiletries fell down the fucking crapper –everything- My toothpaste, my acedopholous- my hair brush- my toothbrush- and whatever else was in there that I can’t think of right now.

- THIS IS ALREADY A BAD DAY-

Yoga on the rooftop was pretty cool


Update- My new little friend Sonny, who is all of 4 years old, just cleared out the toilet ☹
Here is a letter that Mallory wrote to herself while sitting alone in a café for an hour and a half- Some of this are my thoughts as well:

“ To: Me
If you are reading this then you defy all odds & you actually finished asshole! As a check-in.. it is your 3rd day in Varanassi… your leaders do not like you- The Chris kid is a maybe- Girls hate (not Claire) you, you walk too slow. It is too fucking hot to function, you have no clean clothes and smell like a foot and you really want to go home and you would if you wouldn’t have to spend years living it down to your family and friends. Oh & you think you dreads.. yes 100% because-you-don’t-brush-your-hair-dreads. I could pun up this paper about how you “dread” the next day but- I won’t . You’re currently sitting alone in a cafe, writing this because you have NO friends (except Vibhu but he’s most likely playing soduku) you didn’t go home. You deserve- what would be the biggest reward right now? A hug? A haircut? Clean clothes? Shower
Congratulations
Love, yourself. "

_____________________
From: Claire
Subject: Email from a dirty river

Hello again!
Let me just tell everyone how much i love getting your emails, it makes me feel like I didnt just drop off the side of the world (even though it may be the case).
I arrived in Varanasi yesterday morning after a 12 hour train ride which was something out of a book. I dont even know where to begin explaining it and I dont think i could ever really do it justice through email. Let just say that I spent a lot of time with my head near a 60 year old HORRIBLY dirty ceiling. And it was still better than the plane, if only because you can at least close your eyes and pretend to be home. One of my fellow travellers was accosted by 4 indian transvestites who decided to flash him while everyone else was sleeping. He was not a happy camper.

Varanasi is a lot better than Delhi was. It feels more like a smaller town. If Delhi is New York, than Varanasi might be... Vienna. We are going to be here for 2 weeks and we started our internships today. I had signed up for jewelry making, which already sounded cool, but I quickly discovered that I'm actually going to be doing silverworking. I GET TO USE A SOLDERING IRON AGAIN!!!! Needless to say; i'm a bit excited. This morning we had our first Yoga class on the roof of the guest house and that was pretty cool too - and believe it or not : Im above average flexible : ) !!! And then we had a hindi class which just blew me away. Learning to write in sanskrit is like learning to write in code. It is so cool. I'm just having a really hard time hearing the difference between 'dah,' 'da' and 'da' with an accent.... every letter here has it's 'h' equivalent: they have ga and then gha, bah and bha... its a little confusing.

BUt the real fun was this morning. Let me begin this story by explaining that every toilet we have encountered since leaving delhi has been a turkish toilet. this means that its a hole in the ground that you sqwat over. Well, this morning, after brushing my teeth over the turkish toilet with my bottled water (please pause and try to imagine doing this as it is very odd already) I put my toiletry bag on the ledge and ran out to wake up the others. As I reached the door I heard something fall and then make a "splash noise". I go back to the "bathroom" to find my toiletry bag in the crapper. And I OBVIOUSLY hadnt zipped it up, so when it fell, all the contents fell in first. Which meant that my toothbrush, toothpaste, brush and other things were now floating in shit. All i managed to save was my deodorant. I was a sad panda.

Well, its about 4:30 pm and I meet my homestay family at 5, so I need to run to pack up all my stuff (minus my toiletry bag)

Once I settle into my new home, I will have more time and will be able to write personal emails instead of these mass ones.
UNtil then,
Much Love,
Claire
______________________
From: Claire
To: Brother

My camera has been on the fritz lately, but Im hoping to get some pictures from my buddy's digital camera and send that to you before I leave for Bodghaya on Tuesday

And just one quick note:
They bicycle rickshaw here and they nicer ones usually have a cool design on the back, usually a lotus flower, with two hands reaching for it, sometimes two elephants or peacocks- well on our way here I saw one that had two llamas on the back and freaked out! i tried to get my camera out but it was gone too quickly. Anyway,. this was a week ago and Ive been looking for it ever since abnd yesterday I saw FOUR!!! I took as a sign that you were saying hello.

Love you,
Claire

Say hello to Julienne Fries for me :)

India- September 17th 2005

September 17th 2005
Delhi is insane. I’ve already brushed my teeth with the contaminated water and become the life long friend of a rickshaw driver named Ravi who has promised to pick me up again tomorrow against my will- “No problem!” What should have been a 20 rupee ride turned into 50 because he took us to the wrong side of town, thinking I had asked for some Babar market and not Babar lane, He then proceeded to drive us to Babar road, which was different of course. Who the heck is Babar anyway?
I thought we would never make it home

September 18th 2005
There is a man outside our window who has been pacing back and forth while sounding like a goat and chiming some bells on a sick.

This has been the craziest day yet- from a rickshaw ride with Jen’s butt hanging out the window (and later mine) to a Punjabi and Sari shopping spree and then a Las Vegas inspired Jain Temple.


The owner or some high ranking man immediately ran over to us, explaining that he was from Vancouver, Canada & how he knew that it was a long way away (a whole 5 hour plane ride, he says).
He ushered us through a highly decorated bird hospital and then through sacred areas. By the end of our forced tour, we know that he wrote and appeared in musicals and that he would be waiting for us to return to Delhi in three months to have lunch and dinner.
Next, as we walked to the Red Fort, a man walked up to Elise and asked: “would you like a beard, Madam?” She just about collapsed on the floor laughing and then had to get back up and ask the price. The man said 100 rupees, which Elisa said was too expensive and he replied: “but this is real human hair!” well this argument cinched the deal for Elise and they settled on 50 rupees.
We finished the night at a “sound & light show” at the Red Fort which last half an eternity.

September 19th 2005
Today was our last day in Delhi, so it was mostly spent running errands, but we did manage to go see where Gandhi ashes are kept, in a beautiful garden in the middle of dirty Delhi.
As a special treat our leaders treated us to movie tickets to Salaam Namaste, but before that us girls had to go pick up our handmade punjabis & saris. I bought a sari and a punjabi (tunic, pygama pants and matching scarf) which was a perfect fit, but the sari needed a shirt and petticoat made to order. Let me tell you that having something custom made is amazing- The shirt fit perfectly and I now have an extra skirt- and it’s a pretty purple! After trying on my gorgeous sari, snapping a picture with the woman who helped me for 2 days, we darted to out movie.


I WANT TO BE IN A BOLLYWOOD MOVIE!
The movie was just as crazy as Delhi is and I’ve never heard louder music. All in all, I loved it.

from claire date Sat, Sep 17, 2005 at 6:04 AM subject Namaste! mailed-by gmail.com

hide details 9/17/05

Reply

Hello everyone!!
well, Im here and its completely INSANE. But let us start from the begging- Im sorry I didnt call anyone from Hong Kong, but I left my address book in my checked luggage and didnt have the special phone card number with me. The 13 hour flight turned out to be a cinch since I took a sleeping pill (thank you Ashly!) and was knocked out for 9 hours. We arrived at 5:30 AM and took the train into the city. Our first stop was the Botanical and Zoological gardens which were awesome. I am officially in LOVE with this city. It is like nothing I've ever seen before. It's an island with massive hills covered in greenery and the skinniest, tallest skyscrapers I've seen. We took the Peak Tram which took us at a 60 degree angle up the mountain and witnessed the prettiest views of the city. We also visited a famous temple (but dont ask me which one...) and it was the coolest kitchiest place. It was stuffed full is statues of gods, fruit, candles, twinkling colored Christmas lights and incense. They even had those giant spiraling incence sticks which look like beehives, and these covered the ceiling. All in all, the place was pretty smoky and under construction, so it was very 'transy'
At about 6 pm we decided that we were all pretty exhausted and headed back to the airport, where we all promtly fell asleep sitting up.
We arrived in Delhi at 3 am to rain and craziness. They drive on the left hand side, but we would never have know that since no one obeys any traffic laws. They incessantly honk and try to squeeze in between trucks and concrete pylons. I've found that the best way to cope is to close your eyes.
Right now I'm in the middle of a crazy scavenger hunt and i think my team is loosing- we are way too tired to think straight- after getting to bed at about 6 am, we were up for breakfast at 9.
Also, I went on the best shopping spree in Hong Kong. Its fabulous and cheap. My bag is much heavier now and I could care less.
I miss everyone terribly and feel like I'm might as well be living on mars right now (at least they might have hot water and a shower head there!!) but I think this should only get better. Delhi is a little to crazy for me,and I cant wait to find inner peace in the mountains.
I shall write back as soon as I can find this dingy little place again- but right now I have to go bargain for a ride back to the guest house in a rickshaw (think bicycle pulled carts).
Much love!
~Claire

India- September 14th 2005

As a Sophomore in college, I spent a semester backpacking through Northern India with a small group of students. It was an incredible experience amplified by the fact that for the first time in my life, I kept a daily journal. Now 4 years later, wanting to combine my writings with all the pictures we took along the way, I thought it might be appropriate for the blog. I hope you enjoy the journey!



I still can’t believe I’m going

I got up at 5:30am Washington time to take a shower, my last real shower, before embarking on a 50 hour adventure flight to New Delhi leading to a 3 month stay in India. When you know that you’re going to spend 15 hours flying to Hong Kong, a 5.5 hour flight to San Francisco is a piece of cake. I think that hardest part will be the 9 hour wait in the airport before I meet any of my fellow explorers. But even when I do meet them, we still have another 6 hours until our flight at 1:20am (or 4:20am Washington time) which means by the board, I will have spent 15 hours in this airport and been awake for 23- All on 4 hours of nervous sleep.


7:23pm
I’m to meet my fellow travelers at 7:30-8ish at the Cathay Counter. Well- here I am. And I’m finally nervous. I’m the first one here and keep thinking I’m at the wrong desk- wrong terminal- maybe we’re meeting at LAX and not SFO after all. All I know is that I’m about to embark on the biggest journey of my life and I’m early and alone. Talking to Ash and Kris and Mom made me think that I wish I was home- I’ve been at this airport for so long that I’ve forgotten why I’m here.

The 13 hour plane ride turns out to be a piece of cake after I take a sleeping pill & pass out for some 9 hours.


I want to live in Hong Kong

Started the day off at the Botanical & Zoological gardens where some 20 people were doing Tai chi with swords. We took the peak tram to the top and saw amazing views of the city. In the galleria at the top, Jen and I were lectured upon faith and life:
“ Jesus- peace be with him”
“You are deserve”
“Jonah was in the whale of the belly”


We finally tore ourselves away after 30 minutes but not without a picture and his card with promises that we would call if we ever felt like talking. It was a mind boggling and surreal experience.


Eating beef noodles for breakfast- sending postcards home- shopping spree! HK$ 119 for a robe- HK$148 for a saddle bag- HK$40 for 2 magnets. HK&68 for a bracelet blessed in a temple we visited & HK$ 99 for a T-shirt.


HOUR 49 OF TRAVELING
I can smell my hair ☹

HOUR 58- DELHI
We land in Delhi and take a taxi to our homestay. Because of the rain & heat it is hard to see out the windows of the 1950’s cab, but what we imagine is enough- They drive on the left, use their horns constantly and risk their lives squeezing in between trucks and concrete blocks. Our homestay consists of 4 floors filled with tiny rooms which seem to appear out of nowhere and somewhere between the catwalks outdoors and the rooftops we climb to get to our room.
It’s been raining here for 3 months and the dripping water is nothing compared to the honking and what seems to be a parade going on outside. Someone is definitely singing. Tomorrow I shall awake to a whole new world.